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The Highest Achievement Of Ancient Weaving Technology - The Jacquard Machine

2025-07-07

Jacquard began to appear during the Shang Dynasty. Jacquard originated from the original waist machine to pick flowers, traditional looms can only weave plain fabrics, while fabrics with complex patterns are woven with jacquard machines.


By the Han Dynasty, this jacquard machine process had been used in diagonal looms and horizontal looms. The flower-based jacquard machine, which represents the highest achievement of China's ancient weaving technology, was born in the Eastern Han Dynasty, also known as "Flower Building".


The flower book is a set of programs to store pattern information on the jacquard machine, which is woven by the foot line representing the warp thread and the ear wire representing the weft line according to the pattern requirements. When the machine is on, the foot wire is connected to the fiber wire of the lifting warp, at this time, the foot wire on the side of the ear wire can play the role of lifting the relevant warp. When weaving, two people cooperate up and down, one is a flower puller, sitting on a three-foot-high flower building to pull flowers and weave, and one person steps on the pole to lead the weft weaving.

jacquard machine

In Wang Yi's "Machine Woman" of the Eastern Han Dynasty, he used "slender and quiet woman, meridian network, shaken and multi-faceted, and pitched up" to describe the scene of weavers and jacquard workers cooperating to manipulate jacquard machines. However, this jacquard machine is too large, and at the same time requires many people to work together, the production efficiency is extremely low, and it is not easy to promote it in the people.


In the early years of the Three Kingdoms Cao Wei, Ma Jun, who was called the "master craftsman" of the Three Kingdoms period by netizens, saw that the jacquard machine was very complicated, the production efficiency was very low, and the labor intensity of the flower puller was very high when he was a teenager. Ma Jun saw that at that time, the loom had 50 warp threads (foot pedal control plate) and 60 warp threads 60 creeps, so he changed the loom to twelve creeps, so that it could be operated by one person, which greatly improved the efficiency.


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